Puppy Love

R and Remy

Some R&R: a 10 year old who thinks Remy is adorbs!


The globalized, interconnected world is a weird and wonderful place. Yesterday R., Tuck and I visited with my friend Joanna, her two boys (M. and X., ages 15 and 13 respectively) and their 16 week-old Barbet puppy Remy. I met Joanna last fall in my french class that I take twice a week in Aix-en-Provence. So at lunch in France we had 2 Canadian humans, 1 Canadian-born dog of French origin imported to France with us this year, 3 Aussies who now live in Scotland, and their Barbet who was born in the UK and now also lives in Scotland.

Joanna first met Tuck on Monday October 15 at 9h. My, how time flies! Due to a series of first-world logistical problems that day I ended up asking my french teacher if Tuck could come to class with me that particular Monday. She kindly agreed and the rest is history.

On Monday October 15th, I arrived at french and Tuck (a.k.a. Mr. Charming) did the dog version of the bisous (double kissing someone when you greet them). Lots of dogs are very good at currying the favours of humans, the Barbets are best-in-show in this regard. When Tuck was a puppy we brought him home on December 12. We often have a Christmas Eve afternoon open house and were a bit worried about how that might go with a new puppy at home. Our fears were put to rest when puppy-Tuck marched into our living room full of people and promptly plopped himself down in the middle of the room and took a nap. Tuck is happiest in a room full of people and at french class he decided to make himself at home by picking Joanna’s feet to warm when he laid down.

Before class had ended Joanna’s dog-questions began and by the end of the week I had introduced Joanna to Paula (the breeder from whom we got Tuck and a person who holds a very special place in our family). Paula then helped Joanna find breeders on this side of the pond. In January R. and I took Tuck over to meet Joanna’s husband and two boys. Not long after Joanna had found a breeder and began the process of hoping to get a puppy all while packing up their France house to move to Aberdeen, Scotland.

Their puppy was born in March and they brought him home in early May [editors note: there are many advantages to being the kind of person who neglects to delete emails, in this case I have an email trail to help recreate this entire history!]. I’m a complete sucker for Barbet puppies with their sticky-up warthog tails and rolly-polly bellies. When R. and I arrived yesterday to meet him we were reduced to two babbling fools about how soft and cute he is!

Me with Remy

It is SUPER hard to photograph black dogs.

It was wonderful to see Joanna, her boys, meet their puppy and it was especially nice that R. got to join me. Normally she should have been at school but her teacher was away sick, there was no sub available, and so she got to spend the day with me. Having R. with me for this visit was particularly fun because she’s the one whom we credit with our getting Tuck.

shadow

My first dog’s name was Shadow. She was a pound-dog, a mix of lab, shepherd and given her propensity for eating everything, part goat -I had that dog’s stomach pumped 3 times! I got Shadow as an adult dog when I was single and living in Kingston. It’s a long story but the short version is that she pretty much picked me to be her person. And while I was terribly allergic to a dog that seemed to shed her undercoat almost weekly, Shadow was a vital and much loved member of our family. Everyone in my family has a ‘Shadow stole my food’ story, she was an amazing canoe trip companion, and she was a good sport flying back and forth from Vancouver for a year when I did my post-doc out there.

Four years ago February Shadow died in her sleep in our house at the ripe old age of 15 having had a perfectly ordinary day. We should all be so lucky! At the time R. was about to turn 7 and H was 3. Because I am allergic to dogs, after Shadow died, I really wanted to wait a year before considering whether we’d get a new dog. I wanted a chance to see how much better I’d feel without a dog at home. All of this wait-and-see thinking was all very good and well but it didn’t take into account something that proved to be quite important.

At the time, I really had no idea how much having a dog in our family meant to R. It took us about a week to figure out that R. was a child with dogs in her heart. For her entire life we’d had Shadow and with Shadow gone R. was a bit lost. About 6 weeks after Shadow died, on a Thursday evening, I gave R. my Eyewitness dog breed book and told her she should start learning about dogs, their sizes and their personalities so that if, 11 months later, we were going to get a new one, she could help participate in our decision-making process.

Shadow was terrific but when she joined me, I was at a different point in my life with plenty of time and energy to roll with the many challenges she came with. By the time she died, we were a family with two young children living in 14′ wide house in urban Toronto. My allergies to dogs hadn’t changed much and the appeal of a less-allergic dog was large for me. Welcoming a dog into a home with children is an entirely different prospect than bringing home an adult dog when you are a single woman. So we began to consider getting a puppy and this time from a breeder.

About 20 minutes later R. comes back, page open to the Barbet and says “I think we should get THIS dog”. I thought I knew that book inside out and backwards from a time in my mid-20s when I learned a lot about dogs and quickly. But when I saw the Barbet it was a breed that I’d never heard of and I had certainly never met or seen one. 30 minutes later we’re googling the breed and by bedtime that night I’d sent an inquiry off to Paula asking if “someday” we might be able to come visit to meet her dogs and learn more about the breed.

Someday turned out to be 3 days later when we drove one rainy April morning to Kitchener to meet Paula, her family and her dogs. We were especially taken by Bonnie, Paula’s gentle “giant” of a Barbet – we loved her calm and warm personality. By 3pm that Sunday we’d written back to Paula to ask her if she might consider us for one of Bonnie’s puppies in a year’s time. But that spring of 2009 I’m sure we visited Paula 3 or 4 times just to hang out. At that point we were on the list to get a puppy in the spring of 2010.

Then, one evening in the summer of 2009 I got a message from Paula addressed to all of the families who wanted one of Bonnie’s puppies. Her message basically said “Bonnie went into heat much sooner than expected, how are you collectively feeling about a puppy 6 months earlier than planned? No pressure. We can wait but if we are going to move sooner rather than later the window is small”. Thus began a series of SMS between me and Chris who was out having a beer with friends. By bedtime we’d decided “ok, let’s go for it now”. And in December 2009 we brought Tuck home.

During our entire process of deciding about if, when and which kind of dog to get, we’d had our minds turned to the sabbatical we’re just about to finish. By spring 2009, I had just been tenured and Chris was submitting his package that fall. We had long conversations about whether to wait until after sabbatical to get a dog because we knew that if we were going away for a year we’d want our dog to join us. So we thought long and hard about the appeal (or not) of countries with strict quarantine rules. By that point we were pretty sure we’d like to go to France so we did some early reading and learned that if we had a dog, with time, money, paperwork, and a willing landlord, our dog could come along with us.

big and small

Barbets big and small.

So now, in 2013, in Provence, R. and I had a puppy playdate with friends and their new dog. R. had an amazing time with the two dogs and because Joanna is such a gracious host, we all had a wonderful visit together. Tuck has been such an important part of our adventures here and at home and Joanna’s family is clearly smitten with Remy. And all, in the end, because a 6 year old girl deeply missed her first dog. Merci bien R!

Dance tunes redux

France is renowned for its amazing wine, food and fashion. But now, as the end of my time here draws close, much to my surprise, I have learned that lots of french people are die-hard fans of dance music and live performances.

Take, for example, the phenomenon that is Claude François. Who is he you might ask? Before coming here I had no idea.  But then, in one of my french classes, our supply-teacher used this song as a teaching aid:

While the Prancercise woman gives Cloclo an awfully good run for his money, Claude François is a national favourite with his french sort-of-covers of American tunes from days gone by. His 2012 biography was very popular and french people of my age and older get misty in the eyes when you mention his name.

Friday night was the national Fêtes de la Musique. It takes place every June 21st with professional and amateur musicians playing in public spaces across the country for free. It’s a terrific way to spend the longest day of the year! In our village the stage was about 100m from our house so we were able to hear every second of their sound check right through their performances lasting not long past midnight. While having dinner on our terrace on Friday evening Chris and I played a version of ‘name that tune’ debating whether “Easy Lover” was really a Genesis song or not (it’s not, just Phil Collins). Our girls got their first listens to “Eye of the Tiger” and “Tainted Love” among many other oldies but goodies.

There have been 3 evenings that I can remember from this year with public outdoor music in our village. Each time we’ve been treated to a medley of music from the 70s and 80s in English. It’s all the rage here and there is something quite endearing about well-fed, well-dressed french people grooving to cheezy music sung in my mother tongue.

Vide grenier is french for I’d rather give my stuff away!

vide grenier morning

Early morning at our town square with everyone setting up for the Vide Grenier and Brocante.

Today was our village’s garage sale (vide grenier; translation: empty attic) and brocante (like an antiques market). We decided to pay 10€ and purchase 2m of space at the sale. Our primary purpose was to sell off the nespresso machine we bought when we arrived. But when we started to pack this week we realized we had lots of things we could sell.

Filling out the application form for the vide grenier required almost as much detail as registering our girls for school. A few weeks ago I got an urgent text from Chris asking me for the i.d. number on our car! We had to provide this information to purchase a simple spot. We also had to swear that we would not participate as sellers more than twice  a year, we’d only sell things that were used and commit to other vows far more serious in intent than our ‘hey we want to sell our posh coffee machine’ mindset coming into this day.

nespresso

First world problems indeed: how much can we sell our nespresso for?

We were told that set up began at 5h30 and that by 7h things would be nuts. Around 6h15 we were surprised to find out for our 10€ we got 2m of space on the sidewalk and the road – for some reason I thought we also got a table. No bother, down went the picnic blanket. By 6h45 we’d already made our first sale – a rather aggressive negotiator bought 9 pairs of kids shoes from us for less money I think we should had held out for. But saying “yes” got rid of him and put some money in our pockets – well worth the extra 10€ I think we might have haggled for. His purchase quickly made me realize why I’ve probably never done a garage sale before – I hate dealing with people in this kind of business transaction.

A year ago right now we were fervently working to purge our house of things unnecessary and unwanted. We were making many trips a day to the storage locker and Goodwill. And for days on end we put tonnes things to the curb for others to take. We sold a handful of things on kijiji but really, in the end, we were both ok with just getting the stuff out of our house and into the hands of other people.

Flash forward to this weekend – two weeks before the end of school (July 5) and our departure not too long afterward. Packing is top of mind. We’ve tried this year not to buy too many things but we are cursed/blessed with children whose bodies and feet are rapidly growing and our daily desire for espresso exceeded our tiny village’s resto capacities. So in addition to the coffee machine we had a blanket full of goods to sell.

our stuff

Notre trucs. Les trucs is one of the most useful words I’ve learned this year. It means “stuff”. Kids use it _all the time_. It is a helpful word when your mental database of nouns isn’t as stocked as you might like it to be.

As things got going this morning, I soon realized that our ‘almost new, brand name’ stuff wasn’t going to fetch much, if anything, at all. One man returned 5 times to negotiate with us to buy the nespresso – his opening offer was 20€. No way. We had it listed for 75€ – I set that price to be under the prices that other nespressos were fetching on the le bon coin (like kijiji). By 9:45am I sold it for 60€ to a much nicer woman. Then I began texting village friends to see if we could bundle up the best of the remaining clothes to recirculate to their kids. By 10:45am all that was left was an Ikea reusable bag full of skates, horseback riding boots and a few clothes that I will donate to the local charity which is now sitting downstairs in my sejour.

As I write this post the sale is raging on. There is not a parking spot to found in our village and people are still haggling at 16h like they did at 7am. From travel in East Africa, I learned how to haggle but today confirmed for me this garage sale gig isn’t my thing. I don’t enjoy it as a buyer or a seller. If the price is fair, I’m happy to pay it. And if we don’t need it, check the 14 feet of sidewalk in front of our house in Toronto.

45

45 smurfs

France is a wonder of artisanal marshmellows – the ones above don’t count. Hariboo, a French candy maker, just started making marshmellow smurfs. When I saw them at the Carrefour I thought I’d line up 45 of them on my birthday.

Gulp. That’s how old I am today and weirdly, on this first day of my 46th year of life we have 46 days left here in France. Bonjour from midlife.

When we were planning our sabbatical and I realized I was turning 45 in France I checked to see what day my birthday fell on: a Wednesday (no-school for kids). So imagined we’d pack up for the day, head to the coast, enjoy the heat and rent chaise-lounges at a private beach club to ring in this birthday. The best made plans … Provence has had a cold and rainy spring, it’s not that warm, and today is one of two Wednesdays this school year when our kids have to go to school. Good bye beach, hello goats.

Today is a quirky day in our village. The 2013 Marseille-Provence (MP2013) Transhumance arrives. The Transhumance celebrates the annual movement of herd animals through the region – we routinely encounter goat road blocks on the mountain as the local herds are moved from one area of grazing to another. This MP2013 one will have people and animals from three countries (France, Italy and Morocco) travelling over 600 kilometres. The French Government made this video that hints at the amazing combination of ancient (and ongoing) agricultural practice with art and culture.

It’s a lovely coincidence that today’s Transhumance stop is officially in our village. Some school kids (including R.) have been learning a dance which they will perform. The event begins across the street in our town square where we’ll join a procession up the mountain to the official place where the Transhumance activities will begin.

When I finished urban planning school in 1994 I landed a job that I absolutely adored. I was hired to work as a special events planner in Pittsburgh Township (now part of the City of Kingston) and one of my big tasks was to help with the annual sheep dog trial. I met some colourful people (ahem, yes you Amanda!) whose dogs did phenomenal work. So this french Transhumance feels like a terrific way to celebrate on my birthday.

Fifteen years ago today, on my thirtieth birthday, I was also in France. It was my first trip to Europe and I was in Paris with my dear friend Michelle. At the time, turning 30 felt like a big deal and, looking back, that birthday was really the beginning of my adult life that I am living now. It was a stocktaking birthday to be sure after which a curious but important series of events set in motion opportunities and encounters that form the foundations of my family and professional life today.

Midlife is a peculiar vantage point in that I can remember back to when I was a preschooler but also can look ahead to the future and think “wow, there is so much left to do! I better hurry up!”. Midlife may bring crisis, but for me, this year, it brings opportunities too. I’m delighted to share my birthday with hundreds of goats, sheep and horses watching our children dance on the side of a mountain to which I am deeply attached. Pictures to follow soon!

Adieu Detox Salad, Bonjour Tropézienne

A while back after a yoga class, my mobile started to ring. I was standing in the co-ed change room and trying to turn off my phone but I was also a wee bit worried because Chris was away and few people other than the school have my mobile. So I answered it. My friend M. from our village was calling to say she was in Aix and wanted to know if I wanted to take a coffee? Lucky me!

Problem was, I was starving (what else is new), so I dragged her off to to a restaurant so I could eat something and we could both have something warm to drink. That Thursday was day one of the coldest Mistral days I’ve experienced here. The winds were blowing 120km/hr and silly me had left the house in capri length yoga pants and no socks.

So off we went and I ate something called a “detox salad” full of quinoa and avocado. It was delicious and that resto is one of the few places in Aix I wasn’t embarassingly underdressed for lunch. Their massive communal table is great cover up when you show up for lunch in your gym clothes which is considered terribly uncouth in these parts.

After lunch when I got home, I received a notice about a new café opening in Aix called La Tarte Tropézienne. It’s a chain restaurant and one has just opened up not far from french and yoga. I immediately emailed M. and said “to hell with the detox salad, next time we’re going there!”.

Before arriving here I had never heard of, seen, or tasted a tarte Tropézienne. There are three of them pictured below and these ones are from the epicentre of deliciousness in Aix, the historic bakery Béchard.I was treated to my first tarte Tropézienne within weeks of our arrival in France. My friend L. bought one and fed it to us at dessert.

tropiezine

I borrowed this photo from another blogger.

It was the.most.delicious.dessert.I.have.ever.eaten. I kid you not but I dreamed about that cake three nights in a row!

I am not the first nor will I be the last to write about this tarte. This blogger does a terrific job of sharing how Brigitte Bardot helped name and popularize the dessert. It is a simple creation with two pieces of brioche cake hugging delicious cream filling. Have I told you they are delicious? I googled “tarte Tropézinne” and looked at the images that popped up. None of them. Repeat none of them come close to suggesting how good this cake actually is.

I like them so much that one afternoon I fired emails to all of the french bakeries I could think of in Toronto asking if anyone them made this desert. Nary a one … yet. Looks like I need to start making them myself! Luckily, we’ve got back-to-back visits with Grandparents and two birthdays coming up between now and when we leave so we’ll have lots of good excuses to indulge.

New Christmas traditions

pcshitt soad

This is a brand of soda sold in France. Today at lunch in Marseille we had a good laugh with our waiter explaining why our girls giggle when they order it. Thanks to http://stefansargent.com/articles/?p=273 for the image. Given the subject matter in this post it seemed only fitting to lead with this image.

WARNING: this post contains many scatalogical references along the lines of what we’d call “bathroom jokes” in our house. If this kind of stuff is not your cup of tea stop here. Normally it’s not mine either but this experience was one that I am keen to share. However, if you enjoy reading about holiday traditions from other parts of the world and have a good sense of humour, read on …

* * * *

One of my oldest and dearest friends, E.S., is the kind of friend who, when on a road trip to Cleveland OH, has an ipod full of things “you must listen to while we are driving”. On said trip she shared a David Sedaris podcast about how they celebrate Christmas in Holland. I won’t spoil it for you but if you haven’t read or listened to this essay, save it for a grouchy day, it’s that kind of funny.

I remember, when listening to it, thinking “I wonder how much comedic license he took when writing this piece?”. And then I just happened last fall to be in Amsterdam on the weekend that Saint Nicholas arrived. I was en route to East Africa and had 36 hours layover. I spent a chunk of it taking photos of Santa and his entourage just to send to E.S. because it really was just like Sedaris said it would be.

Our lead up to Christmas in France this year was lots of fun with gingerbread houses, present making, and gathering items for the Provence traditional 13 desserts. With Christmas come and gone I didn’t expect to be thinking, much less, writing about it in April 2013. But then we went to Barcelona.

We decided to spend our second week of the girls’ spring holiday (not to be confused with the February holiday they just had) in Barcelona so we took a road trip. On our last day we booked a “Kids and Family Tour” with a great company called Runner Bean and had an excellent 3 hour tour of the Gothic Quarter with the lovely Ann-Marie. The tour was just terrific and full of great stories, back alleys, and opportunities to learn more about quirky nooks and crannies of this wonderful city.

Ann-Marie told great stories on our tour about the gorey history of the Catalonian flag and the history of St. Jordi’s Day (St. George as we know him in English). But boy oh boy we were surprised when we learned about Tió de Nadal (a.k.a. Caga Tió) and the Caganer.

At a pause in the tour, Ann-Marie began to tell us a story about some Christmas traditions in Barcelona. When she started I thought we’d hear about street festivals and food but, much to our surprise and delight (at least for our kids!) we learned that in Catalonia there are two Christmas traditions that involve Christmas characters and defecation. The first is Tió de Nadal (a.k.a. Caga Tió, roughly translated into English means *hit log). He’s a wooden log, hallowed out at one end, wearing a Barretina (the traditional red Catalonia hat) and his back end is covered by a blanket. cagatio-230x300

From December 8 thru 24th, Tió is placed out in the family home where he is “fed” treats like orange peel, turrón (a nougat like candy they make), sweet wine and other goodies until the 24th when the family goes to Mass. Then when they get home, the kids sing this song (translated by our tour guide, variations abound we are told but the gist is the same):

Poop Tió poop, poop turrón 

Hazlenuts and almonds

Don’t poop sardines

They are too salty

Poop turrón

Which is much better

Poop Tió poop, Christmas log

If you don’t poop well

I’ll hit you with a stick. 

Then the kids beat the Tió (the log) with a stick. Eventually they stop to see what treats are hiding under the blanket for them. Really, I’m not making this stuff up. The BBC wrote about it and YouTube is full of videos about the tradition. And then, as if that isn’t enough, we learned about the Caganer.

El Caganer is a ceramic figurine depicted with his pants pulled down, squatting, having a b.m., with the end product also included. He is like a bare-bum ‘Where’s Waldo’ because the figurine is usually added to the detailed nativity scenes people set up at Christmas time.

Imagine, you’re at your Grandma’s doing the census of her nativity scene: Mary, Joseph, the baby Jesus, a donkey, some wise men and a guy with his pants pulled down taking a … Seriously! I kid you not. He is supposed to bring good luck with his fertile contributions to the soil. And, El Caganer is big business here with celebrity spin-offs widely available ranging from President Obama to the Queen to Elvis to Maradonna.

lots-caganers

This was one of the only photos I could find that didn’t show a side or rear view of El Caganer.

Needless to say our girls thought this was all pretty fantastic. As we were waiting for our lunchtime restaurant to open after the tour, I looked across the small square and noticed our two girls laughing very hard. I moved a bit closer to hear them singing the Tió song along to a clapping game! Apologies, in advance, to all of the families from our school at home if this song crosses the Atlantic this summer.

There has been lots written about Tió and El Caganer but nothing I read really explains the scatological piece. As with Santa and his entourage in Holland, these traditions may differ from ours at home in North America but they are part of the holiday celebrations here. I wonder what Catalonian comedians and bloggers giggle about from our traditions at home? Regardless, these traditions are long held here and it was a fun surprise to learn more about them.

In my last blog post I wrote about how fond I am of objects with surprises inside. When I shared those thoughts Caga Tió was not even on my radar. Given how much fun we had learning about him we might just have to make one of our own for Christmas this year. I can live with the poop song but it’s the beating of the log with the stick that I am having a hard time getting my head around. I guess it’s not that different than having a piñata.

When our tour was over we returned to the shop that sells El Caganers and bought one to take home. We don’t have a nativity scene … yet … but if you see one on our mantel next Christmas don’t be surprised to see a small Catalonian figure mooning you!

Long may your big jib draw …

kiss the cod

One evening long ago at an urban planning conference in St. John’s Newfoundland, I found myself joining the legions of those who come-from-away as I participated in a “Screeching In” ceremony. When asked “Is ye a Screecher?”, if you want to answer “yes”, you need to drink some “local” hooch (a.k.a. Screech, not really local at all but Jamaican dark rum), recite some prose (the excerpt above mean “may the wind always be in your forward sails”), and kiss a cod as a way of wishing “bon voyage” to those sailing away to bring back the rum.

The other day when we decided to eat my Easter fish for dessert, I was reminded of that sloshy evening in St. John’s and felt the urge to kiss the fish. We cracked it open and found many MORE delicious goodies inside. The four of us, over a few nights, had lots of fun tasting M. Brunet’s delicious chocolate creations. When we get back I’m heading straight for the Chocolateria to see if I can inspire some Easter fun for next year.

easter fish

I’m a hasty photographer and as I’m posting these pics I often cringe at the everyday objects that lurk in the backgrounds of my photos. But these bits and pieces are true artifacts of our life. Note above: there is a half-finished glass of water – that’s my fault and a common bad habit of mine. And there’s a pink hair elastic – for the love of all that is good if hair elastics were currency I’d make the Forbes 500.

chocolate fish

I love objects with surprises inside – kinder eggs, Christmas crackers, and now Easter fish. M. Brunet’s chocolate is truly delicious and he is such a gracious and low key chocolate maker. The fish was great just on its own but then when we popped it open we were treated to a variety of new delicious things. It’s funny how even as a grown up treats like these can delight!

[editor’s aside: It’s funny, all kissing of chocolate cod aside, when writing this post, I stumbled upon another common experience between France and Newfoundland. Earlier this winter I wrote about the tasty tartiflette I made. The recipe for it concludes with putting an entire reblochon cheese on top of a huge casserole full of potatoes, onions and lardons. The recipe for tartiflette isn’t an old Alsatian tradition — it was recently created to increase the sales of reblochon cheese. Well, même chose avec le Screech. It’s not some age-old Newfoundland tradition but a newish one geared toward tourists. Ah, the power of food and booze-related economic development!]

Weird Souvenirs

alessi stashLast month I wrote about how I was collecting grocery store stickers in pursuit of some new cutlery. Well, as you can see above, the fruits of my autocollant collecting labours paid off and our family now has a new set of Alessi cutlery. It was a full family affair with the kids keenly wanting to come shopping to experience, first hand, the erratic distribution of stickers. The kids also were diligent keepers of the stickers ensuring every single one made its way into the collection booklet that we had to present to earn our discount.

I laughed when I looked carefully at this photo - it's like where's Waldo with the self-portrait in the soup spoon.

I laughed when I looked carefully at this photo – it’s like where’s Waldo with the self-portrait in the soup spoon.

The official price per place setting, once I traded in all of my stickers was 8.99€ but then when I gave them my Carrefour card (it’s an affinity card for collecting points) I got 16€ credit for my next month’s grocery purchases. So, all in, we’re going home with a whole whack of groovy Italian-designed cutlery for 56€.

Last week we had Canadian friends visiting and the mum was asking me about what kinds of things I was going to bring home to remember our time in Provence? A whole bunch of Italian cutlery courtesy of Carrefour was the first thing that came to mind.

Joyeuses Pâques

H happy easterHappy Easter to everyone who celebrates it! We’re in the fading hours of a three-day long Easter Weekend here in France. Surprisingly Monday is a holiday here and not Good Friday when the kids had to go to school and all the stores were open. H. coloured this “Joyeuses Pâques” chick at school on Friday and brought it home much to our delight and wee surprise. We’ve long grown used to our schools at home taking non-denminational approach to holidays.

eggs at agatheOn Saturday the girls and I attended an Easter Egg decorating workshop at the home of a local artist. There were about 15 kids and a handful of mums from the village. Agathe, the artist, had an amazing array of paint, dyes, and sparkly things to add to the eggs. In my french class last week we had an interesting discussion about how at home in Canada we decorate white eggs while my European classmates and french teacher were comedically insistent that only “real” eggs could be brown. The kids also decorated cartons and baskets to hold their colourful creations.

brunet

Creativity is certainly abundant here at Easter. I had no idea, before coming, how much fun the Easter chocolate would be in France. I assumed it would be delicious and can report indeed it is. When mes beaux-parents were visiting in December we all took a food tour of Aix where I learned about how, in France, pastry chefs learn how to make pastry, bread, chocolate and ice cream. If you haven’t yet seen it I recommend “The Kings of Pastry” to highlight the intensity and creativity these chefs possess. Our tour guide introduced us to Brunet Chocolate which is now my favourite chocolate shop in Aix (4 rue Laurent Fauchier, Aix-en-Provence).

When buying the chocolate owl for Chris last week I happened to be in the shop when M. Brunet was carrying out a lion made out of chocolate. It stood about 75cm high and it was magnificent! I was kicking myself that I didn’t have a camera with me but you’ll have to trust me that his creation was whimsical and edible. The terrific fish and owl shown above are M. Brunet’s chocolate creations. The fish is being held together with a ribbon because it’s full of something delicious!

other chocolate

The Easter Bunny brought our girls the chickens, the white “chocolate” duck and the sheep. The big bunny heads are from Walkers Chocolates in Burlington ON (thanks to Grandma and Grandpa Gore) and if we were home they would have been hidden under napkins at Easter Dinner. It feels a bit like we’ve been observing the chocolate devouring part of Easter for while now thanks to the early arrival of some Easter treats from Nana Beth which have served as our amuses bouches this last week.

fish

Today is April Fools Day. In France, April Fool’s day is observed by funny efforts to slap paper fishes on the backs of your friends and yelling “Poisson D’Avril!”. We instead ate the delicious chocolate shaped sardines shown above.

basketsIf we’d been home for Easter we likely would have done of our twice-annual Lake Ontario end-to-end drives from Kingston to Burlington to allow for visits with three sets of grandparents in one weekend. R. remarked on Saturday night this was the first Easter in a very long time where the Easter Bunny would hide eggs at “home” for the girls instead of the hotel where we are often staying. The girls were also surprised on Saturday night when they found out that I brought their baskets from home. So, as with the Christmas stockings, we have some well travelled ornaments in our household!

rainbow bunny

Our clocks changed here at 2am on the 31st. I expected our girls to wake us very early on Easter Morning but they let us sleep until a bit past 8am. While her sister watched a tv show, H. kept herself busy making us Easter cards. The inside of mine had this great rainbow bunny which I thought was an excellent celebration of spring, Easter and, little did she know, the growing terrific and inclusive political efforts in the United States to extend marriage rights.

This Easter weekend ends with an odd week for our girls. Much to their chagrin, they have to go to school on Wednesday. At the last minute in the fall the Toussaint break was extended from 10 to 12 school days so the government decided to make up the 2 extra days later in the year. The first “make up” Wednesday is this week. It’s been a good long time since our girls had 4 days of school in a row. Our reminders that it is good practice for when we go home are not persuasive. We also keep reminding them that they only have 9 more school days until friends from Toronto come and they, once again, have two weeks of holidays to enjoy!

Bon courage to everyone at home tonight as you pack snacks and lunches. Just like the week after Halloween, I’m always reminded of how astute the rascals’ negotiation efforts are with the goal of adding a few eggs to boost their learning power. Happy spring everyone!

Tuck Shop


Four years ago we decided it was time to lay the ground work for getting R. interested in sleep-away camp. When R. was younger she didn’t welcome new activities that involved being away from us. But as a child who was keen on the outdoors, team activities and being busy, we thought she might, eventually, be keen on an all-girls camp. So one rainy Sunday afternoon in late spring we started to weave the tales of camp where she could swim every day, canoe, rock climb, make crafts, be rowdy in the dining hall and eat candy from the tuck shop!  At the end of our little wooing effort, R declared “sign me up!”.

For an almost 7-year old the the camaraderie of girls, adventures outdoors and the chance to buy candy without the watchful eye of her parents appealed. My own memories of camp are, I think, sharper because of the brain-enhancing power of pixie sticks and mo-jo’s brought back to the cabin in small brown paper bags. And yesterday, thirty plus years later and thousands of kilometres away I was reminded of the joy of the tuck shop.

Good Friday is an ordinary work day in France which surprised us. But we decided to “observe” the stat holiday from home and go out for lunch in Aix-en-Provence (about 30 minutes away,  the closest large urban centre to our tiny village). Aix was full of tourists – well-dressed ones from the north and, judging by their accents, plenty of North Americans. It was funny walking around a town I’ve come to know quite well watching other people attempt to navigate its tangle of centre-ville pedestrian streets and alleys – I felt more like a “local” than usual. But if you looked inside one of my shopping bags you would have thought I was back at home in Canada.

Last October a curious new café/shop opened up in Aix. It’s called The Provence Shop where they “offer good coffee, tasty food, international groceries and a relaxed atmosphere in the heart of Aix-en-Provence”. Expats are their target market and based on our experiences so far, they are doing a good job both feeding and selling things to Anglo people craving things from home.

provence shop

The Provence Shop is a popular spot – don’t be fooled by this picture taken before the shop opened! It has a rather counter-intuitive name since the only things it really sells from around here is terrific wine. Regardless, their menu is excellent and the owners are lovely.

The store carries food and goodies from the UK, the Netherlands and North America. It’s a quirky mélange of nostalgia, curiosity and utility for us. At lunch yesterday, our table was in the back where we were surrounded by Betty Crocker cake mixes and frosting in a can, Pop Tarts and marshmellow whip, Dutch toast sprinkles, breakfast cereal for the Anglo expat diaspora (Lucky Charms, steel cut oats, and Dorset Granola), baking supplies (including royal frosting mix and baking power which is hard to find here), and cold items like Red Leicester cheddar, Strongbow cider, and English breakfast sausages. We had a hilarious conversation in which I explained the importance of Birds Custard Powder in making Nanaimo bars and trifle. Around the corner from our table were crackers, cookies, local wine, and a bevy of condiments including curries, fish sauce and satay spices, vinegars, “mayonnaise” (the Miracle Whip kind), baby food and all kinds of junk food.

tuck shop

Here’s what we bought yesterday. Our kids have (finally!) come to their senses and realized the deliciousness that is peanut butter – a few weeks ago our friend Lisa and her awesome teenaged daughter H. served up some peanut butter chocolate cupcakes and now our girls are hooked. The Reese’s peanut butter cups will be a fun treat for them. There’s a bag of mini Cadbury Easter Creme eggs in honour of Pâques this weekend. The three people in our house who normally report liking them claim that these particular ones have an orange flavour which is not to their pleasing. We’re headed to our Aix-based friends Lisa and Steve’s for Easter dinner on Sunday so we bought a box of After Eight mints for pure 1970s Canadian “dinner party” nostalgia. A third family is joining us for dinner at their house and they observe Passover. I’m bringing pre-dinner apéro snacks and so I was delighted to find some Matzo crackers. Chris and I spent over an hour that morning in the giant Carrefour attempting to find something that was a Passover-friendly base for dips and spreads. We also bought some granola and a bottle of malt vinegar which will replace the massive bottle of white vinegar we keep in our pantry for when frites served here.

To be clear even without these expat groceries there is no culinary suffering happening in this household. I’ve written enough about delicious food this year that you all know that “all we do around here is eat”. While when attempting to bake/cook there are ingredients from home that would be nice to be able to access (e.g. cream of tartar, peanut sauce, baking powder, hummus without fresh cheese in it) there’s not much we actually miss or long for.  At lunch yesterday I turned to Chris and said “I feel like we’re in a grown-up tuck shop”. Kids at camp don’t need candy just like expats in France don’t need salt and vinegar chips or Golden Syrup. But even on an amazing adventure sometimes it’s a treat to be reminded of fun things from home.